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SPOERRY 1866

SPOERRY 1866

Spoerry 1866, Zeitgeist Redefined

What do Chanel, Queen Victoria, James Bond, the Duke of Windsor, and Louis Vuitton all have in common? The answer later …

This time around, back in July, I wasn’t at all  interested in the runway shows  at  Berlin Fashion Week so instead I chose to  visit one of the three Trade Shows, Premium.  Dizzy from mainstream fashion mediocrity I  came to my senses in a simple space, when  seeing a small collection for men which felt  like stranding on an island of good taste and understatement. Naturally I was  excited to meet the force behind Spoerry 1866, Product Manager Christoph Irnich, who took some time to talk to me about the company and the clothes.

Spoerry 1866 has been the worlds renown supplier of yarn to the luxury segment of the textile industry from day one. Day one, that is the year 1866, when the Spoerry brothers set up a spinning plant in Flums, a small village in the rural valley of Switzerland. Spoerry 1866 is producing the finest, richest and most expensive thread in the world. Sea Island Cotton builds the fundament of their yarn. In addition, the company has been using Vikuna, Cashmere ,Silk or Wool to enrich the raw cotton material according to their customer requests.

Coming from a long line of adventurers (the great grandfather of Mr. Spoerry would travel with his hot-air balloon over Egypt and South America, another flew his own plane, then there was a Spoerry who raced against Steve McQueen in the seventies) Peter Spoerry, who runs the company in

 fifth generation, continuous the family tradition. His keen knowledge of the production side based on over 140 years of experience paired with great resources plus his collaboration with leading craftsmen in Italy and Switzerland made the launch of Spoerry 1866 Men’s line two years ago come very natural. His decision, to first introduce his current collection in Kingston during Jamaica

Fashion week back in June was no accident either. Together with local farmers, Mr. Spoerry owns a plantation -that also treats the cotton- in Jamaica (as well as in Barbados) and showing the clothes there was like paying tribute to the homeland, like going back to the roots!

What I saw in Berlin was a small and exclusive line of about 35 pieces of basic Men’ s wear. Colors mostly navy and white… You find a traditional gentlemen spirit  paired with a taste for luxury and great ease in those  clothes.  So I wondered just who would wear Spoerry  1866′ s accoutrement on & off screen?     Dickie Greenleaf  for instance or let’s say, George Falconer on the  weekend, definitely Jay Gatsby, both Danny Ocean and  George Clooney , then there is the ever so stylish Patrick  Bateman, David Bowie,Russell Simmons, Kayne West,   Puff Daddy in Saint Tropez.   You get the picture?

On that note; remember my question? Here is your answer: Sea Island Cotton. According to Ian Fleming, James Bond’s shirts were made of fine Sea Island Cotton, Queen Victoria’s handkerchiefs, the former King Edward VIII only wore Sea Island Cotton shirts and nowadays luxury brands like Tom Ford, Vuitton and Chanel -to name a few- all use Sea Island Cotton in their garments.

 

Sea Island cotton (Gossypium barbadense) grows in the West Indies; Barbados and Jamaica, because the climate there is perfect. But what makes it so exclusive? For one, the answer lies in its extremely long staples (1.5 to 2.5 inches, 35 to 60 mm) Then there is the silky shine, the texture with the softness of cashmere, as well as its durability, long wear and almost no shedding. Beware though, Sea Island Cotton is not a trade mark. Only after WISICA, the West Indian Sea Cotton Association, certifies the cotton with a numbered hologram, you know you have the real deal.

Yearly harvest allows very limited production which makes Sea Island Cotton such a rare commodity. Demands are high and with that, so is the price.

By the way, appropriately  enough Spoerry 1866 will be  introducing their line during NY  Fashion Week in a small and  intimate gathering at Core … you  might just read about it in Vanity  Fair (I heard George Wayne fell  in love with the clothes in  Jamaica) and here of course, as  our editor at large will have the exclusive rights to cover this party… Cheers to quality, taste and tradition!

 

 

To see the runway show please visit Spoerry 1866


The Cheap Chic of Jean Paul Gaultier

The Cheap Chic of Jean Paul Gaultier

by Hadrian Miguel, Lifestyle & Beauty Director

Hot on the heels of other designer collections for Target like Anna Sui and Alexander McQueen, now comes celebrated French designer Jean Paul Gaultier.

As part of Target’s Designer Collaborations, a special program that features well-established designers who draw inspiration from a collaborative partner, muse or creative element, the exclusive Jean Paul Gaultier for Target collection pays tribute to the American woman – celebrating the forces of style both past and present in American pop culture.

Jean Paul Gauliter with model Agyness Deyn

Jean Paul Gaultier with model Agyness Deyn

Jean Paul Gaultier is legendary for his rebellious and innovative designs and his popularity comes partially from the risks that he takes in his designs and theatrical shows. By blending  unconventional use of materials, edgy & androgynous styles,  along with the pulse of London and New York street wear into designer fashion, Gaultier turned the classic idea of Parisian chic on its head with his punk, pop, and rock sensibilities.

Gaultier’s story of success is a classic tale of passion, longevity, and talent. At the age of 18, with no previous formal training, he was hired as a design assistant for Pierre Cardin in Paris after sending his promising sketches to the designer in the mail. Several years later, after working at the design houses of Jacques Esterel and Jean Patou, Gaultier launched his first womenswear collection in Paris. Early on, he introduced elements that have remained Gaultier signatures, such as the nautical navy-and-white striped Breton-inspired  tops and the reconstructed trench coat.

Cone bra corset made famous by Madonna

Cone bra corset made famous by Madonna

In the 1990′s, Gaultier became internationally known  for his provocative and structured costumes he designed for Madonna’s world tour, constructing the infamous cone bra corsets along with modern, tight black suits. His runways shows are often outrageous and soon more success followed when Gaultier presented his couture collection in 1997 which was lauded for its craftsmanship, meticulous design and exquisite attention to detail. At that time, Gaultier was one of the only designers to feature couture for men as well as women, and to showcase corsets for men. In 2003, Jean Paul became the creative director and designer at French luxury house Hermès.

The world of Jean Paul Gaultier includes womenswear, menswear, accessories, fragrance and couture for a worldwide audience. His creations and designs are favorites among a wide range of celebrities like Janet Jackson, Lady GaGa, Catherine Deneuve, Rihanna, Mickey Rourke, Kylie Minogue, Marilyn Manson, Katy Perry, and Dita Von Teese. He currently designs for three collections: his own couture and ready-to-wear lines, as well as the  clothing line for Hermès,  and luxe handbags…and now a fourth at Target for a very limited time.  His cheap and chic clothing for Target will launch on Target.com and at 250 select Target stores nationwide on March 7, 2010 and remain available through April 11, 2010.

From ingénue to rock ‘n roll, this collection celebrates women of all ages and a host of distinctive, iconic American styles. What you can find in Gaultier’s collection for Target includes a criss-cross bandage nylon dress which exudes modern glamour while a halter neck A-line dress defines old-Hollywood lady-like appeal. Women will rock n’ roll in a cropped two-tone motorcycle leather jacket with a zipper detailing that adds a tough chic topper to spring’s lightweight dresses. Hip-hop takes center stage with a fitted dress featuring suspender straps and cropped open shoulder knit tops with drawstring waist.  The season’s menswear trend shines through on a poplin black and white button-down sleeveless shirt dress with coordinating long-sleeve cropped shrug, while pinstripes find their way on paper-bag waist pants and a short-sleeve double-breasted blazer.

Lazer-cut embroidery, poplin and mesh are woven throughout the collection, providing rich texture on flirty silhouettes, while classic shapes get intricate details and pops of bold colors for modern flair.  Ranging in prices from $17.99 -$199.99, this line of seasonal, affordable must-haves also  includes high-waisted pants and shorts, mini skirts, strong-shoulder jackets, cropped tanks and swimwear that women everywhere will covet.

Here’s a look at the Jean Paul Gaultier for Target collection:

Jean Paul Gaultier for Target. Photos: Target

Photos Courtesy of Target

Coke Light in fashion with Ellen von Unwerth

Coke Light in fashion with Ellen von Unwerth

After Zac Posen and Manolo Blanik it is now fabulous fashion Photographer Ellen von Unwerth’s turn to design her bottle of Coke Light in Europe.

ellenvonnwerth

The bottle is out of aluminum and the color reminds me of the famous Yves Klein blue. On the bottle is a Photo of a woman’s silhouette. It stands for strength, glamor yet lightness and is one of Ellen’s favored which she took at the end of a shoot in Milan as the model walked away.

Coke light by EvU (Medium)

Coming in November the bottles will be limited to 39.000 worldwide, available only at special events.  At the same time young? women have the opportunity to upload a photo and with the right luck, no rather the right look, one can win a workshop and photo with Ellen von Unwerth. Deadline is November 30, 2009. Age 18 and up, so don’t be shy.

http://www.cokelight.de/

When you visit the site do not miss the gallery and look for my favored Pre Halloween 15seconds of shame:

gallery

scary dancetrance85 who says of himself crazy crazy crazy. And yes it is crazy because Ellen is looking for women.

akzent09 trapped in an 80ies GDR time warp

konfetova, who looks like out of a eastern European wife shopping catalog

mflocke, who kept her boots on the beige corduroy couch and chose not to give eye contact

sweetswetlana, clearly a Marilyn Monroe look alike

mitch93053 war and peace, gee, that’s clever and yet another not girl

dindojo no comment

pierzyn, there is only one like me. ha hahahahahahahahahaha. I am speechless!

I do like schwestersascha, in nurse drag saying kranke schwester, which means sick sister (sister in german is a synonym for fag)

On that note just see for yourself, enjoy some rather ruthless exhibitionism and have your pick.

Public Art: Reasons to Believe. Will He Do It?

Public Art: Reasons to Believe.  Will He Do It?

Will he jump?

Don’t worry, this is art.  In Vienna artist Ronald Kodritsch created this public art called “Reason to Believe” and it’s not about suicide, necessarily.  One may think that this was made in response to the economic crisis but actually this concept came to Kodritsch a year before the economic crisis ever erupted.

Happy Hump Day!

Yahoo News

Ronald Kodritsch – Artist Website

The Key in Berlin

The Key in Berlin

The past July in Berlin during Fashion Week, The Key presented a strong collection of fashion and accessories from eco minded designers and artists.  Some of the innovation was eclectic and surprising.  You can have style and be eco minded.  Check out the photos:

The Key To